• Monetary system creates division
• Vintage cars of all makes cruise Havana streets
• Diverse influences seen in buildings
• Billboards promote political wisdom rather than products
• Improvement in literacy a source of national pride
• MDI woman's return to homeland highly emotional
• Mainers planning lessons with link to Cuba
• The triumph of education
• Cubans caught in Elian mania
• Mainers attend rally in Cuba
• Educator to return to homeland
• Maine teachers head for Cuba


MAINE TEACHERS HEAD FOR CUBA

By Gordon Bonin
Of the NEWS Staff

The iron curtain that cut across Europe rusted and fell in 1989. The bamboo curtain that hid China began to be uprooted after the death of Mao Zedong in 1976. But the palm-frond curtain that separates Cuba from America still stands, albeit with gaps blown open or closed depending on the prevailing political winds.

A group of 38 educators, the bulk of them from Maine, are stepping through the curtain, spending Easter vacation in Cuba on a trip organized by a Brunswick-based group called Let Cuba Live. The educators will visit an array of Cuban schools and cultural institutions. Some of the educators plan to practice their Spanish and bring back firsthand experiences to expose their students to another culture. Some want to observe the country firsthand without the political filters that mark the American view.

Others just want to see Cuba, one of the great mysteries of the late 20th century, cut off by the U.S. trade embargo for 40 years. Since 1990, the country has been in what President Fidel Castro calls a ‘‘special period in time of peace,’’ triggered by the collapse of the Soviet Union and Cuba’s other trading partners in the Eastern bloc.

That event caused the Cuban economy to contract by two-thirds, as its credits, subsidies and trade with the former communist countries evaporated. Sugar is king. In the 1980s, it was nearly three quarters of its exports, the bulk shipped to the Soviet Union, which paid above-market prices to buoy the lone bastion of communism in the Western Hemisphere.

The economy has begun to rebound since the mid 1990s as tourism has earned the country desperately needed hard currency. Also, making the U.S. dollar legal tender in 1993 permitted Cubans in exile to send millions a year to relatives still on the island. And President Bill Clinton has eased travel restrictions, opening the way for the Maine educators’ trip.

Let Cuba Live was formed in 1992 by three people who had traveled to the country to learn firsthand about the Cuban health system and the effects of the trade embargo.

‘‘Moved by the plight of their besieged neighbors,’’ according to a brochure, the group seeks to end what the Cubans call ‘‘the blockade,’’ and normalize relationships. There are two reasons for the educators’ trip, according to William T. Whitney Jr., a pediatrician in Norway who is affiliated with the group.

One is cultural exchange, he said. ‘‘We take U.S. citizens who are isolated from Cuba, especially by the barriers put up by the U.S. government.’’

The educational reason for the trip is to see how the much publicized literacy campaign of 1961 has matured, Whitney said. ‘‘The idea for this trip is to see what schools are like and what’s happened since ....’’

In the fall of 1960, Fidel Castro announced at the United Nations that ‘‘Cuba will be the first country in the Americas that, after a few months, will be able to say it does not have one person who remains illiterate.’’

A quarter of Cuba’s roughly 4 million inhabitants was illiterate. The literacy campaign mobilized more than 270,000 people, including middle and high school students, to teach. By the end of 1961, just over 700,000 people had been taught to read.

Today the literacy rate is more than 96 percent, on a par with developed countries. Carolyn Bennett is a middle school math and science teacher in the North Haven Community School. By going to other countries, ‘‘I can bring their culture back for my students. I can bring back diversity,’’ she said. She also intends to bring back cigars to show to her students because tobacco is a cash crop, and ‘‘it’s something kids hear about and relate to Cuba,’’ she said.

Her pupils are also interested in Cuban music. ‘‘I hope to record some live performance and bring it back,’’ she said. Marci Trains teaches kindergarten through third grade in a one-room schoolhouse on Long Island in Casco Bay.

‘‘Learning about the educational system of another country has been extremely valuable to my teaching today,’’ said Trains, who did her student training in England. ‘‘But the most important thing I hope to get out of this trip is to expose my schoolchildren to another culture,’’ Trains said. ‘‘Our kids are not exposed to a lot of culture.’’

Tammy Nelson, a high school Spanish teacher in Presque Isle, said Cuba has interested her ever since she had a Spanish professor from Cuba who had fled after the revolution.

‘‘I’m fascinated by the idea of not being able to stay in your own country,’’ Nelson said. ‘‘I want to see for myself why people were and are anxious to leave.’’ Nelson, like other educators going on the trip, said she wants to experience Cuba without the ‘‘filter of the radical right in Miami.’’

Many of the teachers have some kind of political-educational reason for wanting to see Cuba. Jay Hanes, assistant professor of art and art education at the University of Maine, said that he is interested in seeing ‘‘communitarian values’’ in practice. He also wants to see ‘‘the visual culture’’ of Cuba, especially art’s influence on society. Hanes’ dissertation was on dissident art and he is currently teaching a class on art and activism.

John Michalowski is a history and political science teacher at Katahdin High School in Sherman Station. On the political science side, he wants to see Cuba because it is ‘‘one of the last vestiges of true communism.’’ ‘‘I want to find out how they are changing from a command economy to a market economy,’’ he said. ‘‘I find that fascinating.’’

Interest among his students in Cuba has risen with the Elian Gonzalez saga unfolding in Miami. ‘‘There’s a new awareness there,’’ he said. Some of the educators expressed as a reason for going a sentiment voiced by John Grant of Newcastle, a retired history teacher and administrator from Lincoln Academy.

‘‘Cuba has been a great mystery in my life since the revolution,’’ Grant said. ‘‘It’s been a place that no one ever goes, and it has survived while isolated.’’ During the 1962 Cuban missile crisis, which brought the U.S. and the USSR to the brink of nuclear war, Grant was 24 years old.
He acutely recalls the crisis: ‘‘I was very, very scared.’’

Karol Kucinski teaches middle- and high-school history, government, economics and geography at the Vinalhaven Community School.

‘‘I’m old enough to have been in high school when Castro came to power,’’ he said. ‘‘Cuba has been at the heart of things in my life.’’ He rattled off the Bay of Pigs, the Cuban Missile Crisis, and the fact that there were even Cubans among President Richard Nixon’s ‘‘dirty tricks’’ team, which was involved in the Watergate burglary.

He also has a ‘‘tangential’’ relationship to Cuba, because his grandparents grew tobacco used for cigar wrappers in the Connecticut River valley in western Massachusetts. Because of all the history between the two countries, ‘‘I understand why the older generations have problems with Cuba, but time goes on,’’ said Trains of Long Island.

Many of the educators said they want to see Cuba before Castro dies, because they expect it to change after he does. Nelson of Presque Isle said that after Castro, if American influence pours in, Cuba could turn into just an extension of Florida.

 


All stories and photographs © 2000 Bangor Daily News.