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By
Gordon Bonin
Of the NEWS Staff
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The
iron curtain that cut across Europe rusted and fell in 1989.
The bamboo curtain that hid China began to be uprooted after
the death of Mao Zedong in 1976. But the palm-frond curtain
that separates Cuba from America still stands, albeit with
gaps blown open or closed depending on the prevailing political
winds.
A group of 38 educators, the bulk of them
from Maine, are stepping through the curtain, spending Easter
vacation in Cuba on a trip organized by a Brunswick-based
group called Let Cuba Live. The educators will visit an
array of Cuban schools and cultural institutions. Some of
the educators plan to practice their Spanish and bring back
firsthand experiences to expose their students to another
culture. Some want to observe the country firsthand without
the political filters that mark the American view.
Others just want to see Cuba, one of the great
mysteries of the late 20th century, cut off by the U.S.
trade embargo for 40 years. Since 1990, the country has
been in what President Fidel Castro calls a special
period in time of peace, triggered by the collapse
of the Soviet Union and Cubas other trading partners
in the Eastern bloc.
That event caused the Cuban economy to contract
by two-thirds, as its credits, subsidies and trade with
the former communist countries evaporated. Sugar is king.
In the 1980s, it was nearly three quarters of its exports,
the bulk shipped to the Soviet Union, which paid above-market
prices to buoy the lone bastion of communism in the Western
Hemisphere.
The economy has begun to rebound since the
mid 1990s as tourism has earned the country desperately
needed hard currency. Also, making the U.S. dollar legal
tender in 1993 permitted Cubans in exile to send millions
a year to relatives still on the island. And President Bill
Clinton has eased travel restrictions, opening the way for
the Maine educators trip.
Let Cuba Live was formed in 1992 by three
people who had traveled to the country to learn firsthand
about the Cuban health system and the effects of the trade
embargo.
Moved by the plight of their besieged
neighbors, according to a brochure, the group
seeks to end what the Cubans call the blockade,
and normalize relationships. There are two reasons for the
educators trip, according to William T. Whitney Jr.,
a pediatrician in Norway who is affiliated with the group.
One is cultural exchange, he said. We
take U.S. citizens who are isolated from Cuba, especially
by the barriers put up by the U.S. government.
The educational reason for the trip is to
see how the much publicized literacy campaign of 1961 has
matured, Whitney said. The idea for this trip
is to see what schools are like and whats happened
since ....
In the fall of 1960, Fidel Castro announced
at the United Nations that Cuba will be the
first country in the Americas that, after a few months,
will be able to say it does not have one person who remains
illiterate.
A quarter of Cubas roughly 4 million
inhabitants was illiterate. The literacy campaign mobilized
more than 270,000 people, including middle and high school
students, to teach. By the end of 1961, just over 700,000
people had been taught to read.
Today the literacy rate is more than 96 percent,
on a par with developed countries. Carolyn Bennett is a
middle school math and science teacher in the North Haven
Community School. By going to other countries, I
can bring their culture back for my students. I can bring
back diversity, she said. She also intends to
bring back cigars to show to her students because tobacco
is a cash crop, and its something kids
hear about and relate to Cuba, she said.
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Her pupils are also interested in Cuban music.
I hope to record some live performance and bring
it back, she said. Marci Trains teaches kindergarten
through third grade in a one-room schoolhouse on Long Island
in Casco Bay.
Learning about the educational system
of another country has been extremely valuable to my teaching
today, said Trains, who did her student training
in England. But the most important thing I hope
to get out of this trip is to expose my schoolchildren to
another culture, Trains said. Our
kids are not exposed to a lot of culture.
Tammy Nelson, a high school Spanish teacher
in Presque Isle, said Cuba has interested her ever since she
had a Spanish professor from Cuba who had fled after the revolution.
Im fascinated by the idea
of not being able to stay in your own country,
Nelson said. I want to see for myself why people
were and are anxious to leave. Nelson, like other
educators going on the trip, said she wants to experience
Cuba without the filter of the radical right in
Miami.
Many of the teachers have some kind of political-educational
reason for wanting to see Cuba. Jay Hanes, assistant professor
of art and art education at the University of Maine, said
that he is interested in seeing communitarian
values in practice. He also wants to see the
visual culture of Cuba, especially arts
influence on society. Hanes dissertation was on dissident
art and he is currently teaching a class on art and activism.
John Michalowski is a history and political
science teacher at Katahdin High School in Sherman Station.
On the political science side, he wants to see Cuba because
it is one of the last vestiges of true communism.
I want to find out how they are changing from
a command economy to a market economy, he said.
I find that fascinating.
Interest among his students in Cuba has risen
with the Elian Gonzalez saga unfolding in Miami. Theres
a new awareness there, he said. Some of the educators
expressed as a reason for going a sentiment voiced by John
Grant of Newcastle, a retired history teacher and administrator
from Lincoln Academy.
Cuba has been a great mystery in
my life since the revolution, Grant said. Its
been a place that no one ever goes, and it has survived while
isolated. During the 1962 Cuban missile crisis,
which brought the U.S. and the USSR to the brink of nuclear
war, Grant was 24 years old.
He acutely recalls the crisis: I was very, very
scared.
Karol Kucinski teaches middle- and high-school
history, government, economics and geography at the Vinalhaven
Community School.
Im old enough to have been
in high school when Castro came to power, he said.
Cuba has been at the heart of things in my life.
He rattled off the Bay of Pigs, the Cuban Missile Crisis,
and the fact that there were even Cubans among President Richard
Nixons dirty tricks team, which
was involved in the Watergate burglary.
He also has a tangential
relationship to Cuba, because his grandparents grew tobacco
used for cigar wrappers in the Connecticut River valley in
western Massachusetts. Because of all the history between
the two countries, I understand why the older
generations have problems with Cuba, but time goes on,
said Trains of Long Island.
Many of the educators said they want to see
Cuba before Castro dies, because they expect it to change
after he does. Nelson of Presque Isle said that after Castro,
if American influence pours in, Cuba could turn into just
an extension of Florida.
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