• Monetary system creates division
• Vintage cars of all makes cruise Havana streets
• Diverse influences seen in buildings
• Billboards promote political wisdom rather than products
• Improvement in literacy a source of national pride
• MDI woman's return to homeland highly emotional
• Mainers planning lessons with link to Cuba
• The triumph of education
• Cubans caught in Elian mania
• Mainers attend rally in Cuba
• Educator to return to homeland
• Maine teachers head for Cuba


D I V E R S E . I N F L U E N C E S
. S E E N . I N . B U I L D I N G S

By Gordon Bonin
Of the NEWS Staff

John Michalowski, a social studies teacher at Katahdin High School in Sherman Station, is also an architect. So in the week he was in Cuba, he was interested in buildings.

Everywhere in Havana is Baroque intricacy, in the balconies, doorways and windows. The city is a treasure-trove of Spanish colonial architecture.

The Cathedral of San Cristobal de la Habana in Old Havana, with its different towers, is a beautiful example of colonial architecture, he said.

But what is also striking is the Caribbean influence, especially on the buildings that date to the 1930s and ‘40s, he added.

The city also had some of the most stylish gas stations Michalowski had ever seen; some were even done in tile around the gas pumps.

The poor parts of Havana reminded him of Mexican border towns, such as Nogales, said Michalowski, who used to live in Arizona. "What they’ve done with concrete is amazing."
However, what they haven’t done is the problem, and that is maintenance.

The condition of a typical building in Havana, outside the tourist areas where there has been extensive renovation, is "very, very bad," Michalowski said.

Concrete buildings need to be patched and repainted regularly, he said. But it appears that in the past 20 or 30 years there has been very little upkeep.

On a night that saw a heavy downpour, Michalowski went around Havana with a Cuban he met. They ended up near the city’s main hospital just as two ambulances pulled up in quick succession.

Michalowski’s friend indicated that the most likely reason that two ambulances arrived so close together was that the rain had caused a building to collapse.

"You can see people living on one floor of a building while the floor above is gone," Michalowski said. "They need massive rebuilding. It would take a quarter-century to bring the city back."

Churches throughout Havana, however, were in good shape, most likely brushed up for Pope John Paul II’s in 1998, he said.

One of the most interesting architectural aspects of the trip for Michalowski was a visit to a planned village about two hours west of Havana in Pinar del Rio Province.

The village, Las Terrazas, was built in 1971 in the midst of reforested coffee plantations. The name comes from the terraces dug out of the hillsides to plant the trees. The area became a UNESCO-sanctioned biosphere reserve.

The village is an example of the principles preached by the French architect Le Corbusier, who died in 1965, Michalowski said. It also has elements of a neo-hacienda style, with concrete formed to look like wooden roof beams and columns.

Following Le Corbusier, all the buildings "are done at the scale of a man," Michalowski said.
No building is higher than three stories. The three-level community building has shops on the first floor. The second level is an open-sided sitting area with tables and chairs. The top level holds offices for the village doctors and dentists as well as more stores.

The stores and offices are reached by balcony-walkways on the outside of the building rather than an internal corridor.

"You can see people walking. It’s very personal," Michalowski said. "This is probably the first town built on the principals of the Revolution. It is set up for the betterment of everyone. This is to show you what it could be like."

• Next article: Billboards promote political wisdom
rather than products


All stories and photographs © 2000 Bangor Daily News.